Recently, Ricardo and EMG visited Bar-Ape, at filmmaker Jen Baichwal’s suggestion. I was familiar with it, having lived nearby in the St. Clair West/Oakwood neighbourhood for many a happy year but had not been there in some time. It’s a very odd concept. A small hole-in-the wall, just a stone’s throw north of the justly celebrated and very creative Rushton restaurant, 740 St. Clair West, Bar-Ape has among the oddest hours of any gelato business: Thursday-Friday 5 to 10:30 p.m. and Saturday-Sunday 2-10 p.m. That’s it. Closed in winter. Cash only and named after a three-wheeled Piaggio Ape (pronounced ah-pay) Italian motorcycle much beloved of one of the founders.

With its origins in a food truck, Bar-Ape, in the St. Clair West area since 2016, is a very popular neighbourhood destination. Even on a rainy day, when we visited, people lined up. The attraction, mostly often intriguing soft serve combinations, changes often. Recent combinations have included Ontario cantaloupe with sweet milk, salted pineapple and mint and sour watermelon, sweet butter and vanilla bean (“butter pecan without the pecans, with a ton of Tahitian vanilla”). We tried the brown sugar and Ontario peach, one mixed one just brown sugar.

I’ll let EMG handle the analysis: 

“The flavours are subtle and not always apparent. At the same time, it’s tasty, has good mouthfeel and is refreshing but nowhere near gelato’s feeling.” She rated it neither positive nor negative. 

“I went to the store without looking at opening times, but it was shut,” Jen said. “Seems they are only open in the evenings, and the soft serve is the ‘thing’ I plan to get there soon.” Notable cookbook author and teacher Bonnie Stern shared my puzzlement when I ran into her on the street recently, shaking her head at the lineups and the odd mix of products. “I just don’t get it,” she said.

Other offerings include gelato bars like yuzo matcha, sundaes with toppings, some from neighbourhood providers, and about 10 gelato flavours, offered in pints.

Recent flavours included Apricot, Passion Fruit, Grapefruit, Ontario Plum and Blueberry, Gooseberry and Salted Caramel swirl among others, along with coffee ice cream (not gelato, indicating higher butter fat). We’ll have to swirl back and try those though the Ricardo’s preference is to review those flavours that can be tried on the spot. 

In a well done phrase, a magazine story once said: “I could describe the delightfulness of the taste and texture, and unique flavour profiles of each of our choices. But really, what strikes me most is the feeling of eating a Bar Ape creation. Simply put: it’s the perfect embodiment of the meaning of summer. A series of sweet, joyful, sun-filled, yet fleeting moments we hold onto long after they’re gone.”

The online reviews, however, are rapturous. 

• It’s become a summer tradition to try the new flavours here every week! Very unique flavour combos and the creamiest gelato I’ve had in Toronto.

• “This is the BEST soft serve I have ever eaten. It’s so smooth and the flavour was amazing. I had three. Worth the lineup.

• “This soft-serve gelato is delicate, incredible, and full of complex/gorgeous flavor. I am amazed. The yellow plum and Tahitian vanilla was so pure and flavourful, could not believe it. Even though there is a line they serve people really quickly and with such care. Clearly everyone in the neighbourhood loves it because you can see people come in droves (even before the rain). 

• One of the best gelato places I’ve ever been to! The portion sizes are just right. Not too big and not too small. They also update their flavours every week! Incredible.

• Worth the hype! We got the salted caramel and Earl Grey gelatos and their pistachio bar — they were all fantastic.

My own Bar Ape conclusion is that the $6 soft-serve gelato is innovative and satisfying but it doesn’t tell the whole story, as a great deal of flavour innovation is happening there, and I wonder whether the general consumer is exposed to that.  I must try the pints as that’s where the flavour innovation must be most on display.

As I love pumpkin gelato, my plans are to stage a blind taste-off in which Ricardo’s is one of the contestants. Gelato Fresco will be a part of that and so will Bar Ape, if it offers that perennial fall flavour. We’d like to visit Gelato Fresco someday, it’s venerable products can be found in higher end groceries like Pusateri’s or Fiesta Farms.

Also looking ahead, our next profile will be of Gelato North’s Gisella Zomparelli-Chung, who is off to LA to compete in the Gelato Festival World Masters Semi Final. Her Yuzo Cheesecake won her admission and it’s pretty exciting as the Festival: 

“Showcases the best artisanal gelato craftsmanship in North America highlighting 12 chefs who have won top marks in previous Gelato Festival World Masters sanctioned events in NYC, Toronto, Chicago, and Los Angeles. Each competing chef will be judged by a technical panel of professionals and by festival attendees. The Gelato Festival World Masters in Los Angeles will also serve as a core qualifying competition with the winners earning the chance to represent North America on the road to the World Finals in 2025.” 

Good luck, Gisella. 

PS: if any readers want to suggest Ricardo’s visit their fave gelateria, please email ricardo@ricardosgelato.com.