Back in gelato protohistory, more than 13 years ago, Toronto, despite its large Italian population, was something of a gelato desert, except in places like St. Clair West’s Corso Italia and the College Street Little Italy. Then along came Hotel Gelato in the more mainstream Eglinton West area, proving that the delicious Italian creation’s appeal could broaden to a much broader audience. An Italian neighbourhood Eg West is not. Opening its doors on February 1, 2010, founders Dan Hoffman and Christopher Borowski, armed with scoops of chef training and hotel and hospitality background, were determined to bring an important part of Italian culture to a more conventional population, much as Starbucks’ CEO Howard Schultz wished to import Italy’s coffee culture to the U.S.

At first all the flavours were written in Italian but after too many, “What is torrone? Is Vaniglia vanilla, Cioccolato chocolate?” the signs came down. By the way, that happened in the Corso Italia, too. Linguists we are not. With hotels like the Windsor Arms and Sutton Place in their background, the founders made the place look like a café that wouldn’t be out of place in Milano. With chandeliers, mirrors, an espresso machine prominently displayed on the counter, not way in back, it had that feeling of Italianità. In addition, there’s really good food and I’d be willing to bet there are many in the area who’ve come again and again for the Quinoa or Niçoise salad or have raved about the incredibly delicious lemon ricotta pancakes that perhaps have never consumed much Hotel gelato. If so, that would be a shame. It’s consistently ranked among TO’s Top Ten gelaterias. 

As a long-time patron, I once asked Dan why he didn’t duplicate the concept elsewhere, as it seemed to right for that; in this interview I asked the question again and he said, “Christopher and I are hands-on. We are here, on-site, and there are others who now make the gelato or cook the food, both of us can pitch in and do that if necessary.”

Over the years Hoffman and Borowski have developed at least 100 flavours, some of them most likely unique in the city, unless they’ve been copied. I asked Dan to select four flavours that he felt best represented the enterprise and those were the signature Vanilla Sponge Toffee, Mochaccino Brownie, Lemon Ricotta and Pineapple Coconut, which I picked because of the exotic combination. All were delicious and they came about in interesting ways. A chef of theirs had made toffee for sale, and there was some left. There was a brainstorm and thus a flavour was born. It was introduced in the Hotel’s first year and has been prominent in the gelato bar ever since. 

“Our dark chocolate brownies were very popular,” Hoffman said, “but after baking and slicing, there were always broken pieces left over. I enjoyed them but wasn’t going to eat them all so I thought of putting them into our milk chocolate flavour, then I turned my head to our espresso machine and our own shots became part of the flavour.” 

The Lemon Ricotta was something of a no brainer, as the diners rave about this dish as a menu choice. “It was easy to see why it would make a good gelato,” he said. Personally, I loved that flavour as it brought together the creamy fresh cheese and just the right amount of citrusy tartness. My partner asked why i didn’t bring some home for her (it’s not too late). An oversight on my part. 

The Hotel has survived the debacle of the Eglinton LRT construction mucking up the street, as well as Covid’s many restrictions: like many places you’d stand at the door and order, with not a soul in the restaurant seating. One of the more unusual experiences was in the first year, when one day none other than Top Gun Tom Cruise and his entourage, including three huge black Suburbans, were sitting in the front of the place; he was in TO as his then spouse Katie Holmes was starring as Jackie Kennedy in a mini-series about the infamous Boston clan. Photos were allowed too. Still connected to the concierge community, a colleague had apparently directed the movie star to the Hotel. 

Along the way, there have been some unusual and seasonal flavours: haroset, an apple and cinnamon spread that is a part of the Jewish Passover, as well as an apples and honey flavour, reflecting another custom at that holiday.  Failure flavours included mango lassi, now popular in other parts of the city, and maple bacon, reflecting the local Jewish neighbourhood’s disdain of pork products.

Upcoming flavours include Ontario peach, when the short Niagara season is launched, and sweet Ontario strawberries and roasted corn and watermelon lime, all coming soon!

The partners have successfully maintained an ultra-high level of consistent quality, a neat and difficult trick, as I can personally attest to, as a neighbourhood resident and long-time patron. And you know what, the espresso is really excellent, too.