Kaya Ogruce, the self-described ‘mad scientist’ proprietor of Death in Venice Gelato Co. has transformed gelato into something still recognizable and yet different from probably any other shop in the city or beyond. He’s won all kinds of awards, including Chopped Canada in 2016 where he served his Ricotta Lemon Rosemary flavour. As the Toronto Star described him, Ogruce is “a Turkish dreamboat who is also Toronto’s reigning chemical-engineer-turned-professional-chef-turned-full-time-scoop-artist and has been making buzz with his far-out gelato.” He’s a handsome guy, that’s for sure.

I first encountered Death in Venice at the Healthy Butcher store on Eglinton West, where I was taken with the odd-sounding flavours. For example: Bourbon and Smoked Chocolate. As Ogruce describes it: “For real chocolate lovers…we smoke our dark chocolate and cook it with bourbon. Once we add cream and milk, this thick, dense gelato becomes the ultimate chocolate treat.” That’s inventive; it’s clearly not for everyone as some of the TripAdvisor reviews have stated, alternating with raves at the same time.

When I heard that there was a tasting tour of the place, I signed up. It’s $65 and the chef describes his life and thoughts, the science behind gelato and the company history, along with a tour of his lab and production facility. Ogruze said he spent $100,000 on Italian-made Carpigiani Gelato equipment and home of Gelato University; that’s the difference between a home fabricator like me with a $179 machine and a professional outlet. Because I asked so many questions, he must have thought I would be opening a gelato store, as he said a few times, “If you are thinking of going into the business…” I assured him I was not. 

The brand name Death in Venice isn’t one I’d pick if I had the assignment to name the place. Not many people would recognize the Thomas Mann novella of the same name, or the striking Visconti film starring Dirk Bogarde as Aschenbach, the ascetic ennobled author, provided with a ‘Von’ for his literary excellence, who comes to Venice and is struck by the beauty of a red-haired youth. He becomes obsessed with him, as the dangers of remaining in Venice mount during a humid period where there are warnings of something contagious. It’s decadent, homoerotic, and courts death in the exotic city. How that represents gelato, I am sure only the chef really knows. As most people don’t have that literary frame of reference, or even know who the Nobel Prize-winning author of the Magic Mountain was, the name must seem just quaint.

By contrast, Death in Venice has become a community hub in Little Portugal and promotes new seasonal artisanal products from creative types in the neighborhood Also sold are artisan-made foods and craft items to take home, and also provides catering services in addition to its wholesale and retail businesses. “I never wanted to get into a seasonal business, but here I am,” Ogruce said. “My job is all math,” he told the Star. “And gelato is a bit of science. No matter what kind of engineer you are, it’s all problem solving at the end of the day.”

One of the questions I asked the chef was why do you use Heavy Cream? At the time, I was using 15-18% cream, and if the recipe called for whipping cream, which can be 35% butterfat, I’d substitute it with the lesser percentage. “Don’t do that,” said the chef. “There is just a small amount of heavy cream in the overall quantity, and it expands and adds mouthfeel to the end product.” He was of course correct, and it has made a difference, and I recommend it. Another thing he told the group was that he purchased fruit that might be considered seconds direct from farmers: “It’s not good enough for Loblaws but blended in gelato, it tastes the same.” 

The highlight of the afternoon was the conclusion – a blind tasting of flavours in an attempt to discern actually what went into them. Try that with examples like these: 

Smoked pecan and maple butter

Cappucino double shot: Propeller Coffee beans, crushed and cooked in milk, chilled for three days when espresso is added to the infused milk before churning

Matcha White Chocolate and Vanilla Gelato, made with Pluck Tea’s ceremonial grade matcha.

Vegan Blueberry Lavender Lemonade, with Quebec wild blueberries and lavender from Terre Bleu farms in Milton

Pistachio Yogurt Baklava Gelato, including chopped roasted Turkish pistachios, water buffalo yogurt, honey, orange blossom and rose

I thought the most unusual and strange one was Coconut and Pandan, developed together with Pai restaurants Chef Nuit, Toronto’s most famous Thai chef. Creamy coconut is blended with pandan leaves (called fragrant screwpine in English) to provide an authentic Southeast Asian flavour to the gelato. I had to bring that one home. 

If you want to try the tour, click on the link or email: gelato@deathinvenicegelato.ca. It’s the most tasty $65 you’ll ever spend, if you are like me and think gelato is the best sweet of all.